What Size Heat Pump Do You Need? Free Sizing Estimator
About 20 Btu per square foot (Efficiency Maine’s published method): 2,000 sq ft brackets to 32,000–40,000 Btu/h — enter your size and climate zone.
· Source: EIA Electric Power Monthly Table 5.6.A (July 2026 data) · next EIA update ~Oct 23
On this page: CalculatorTableHow we calculatedSources
Jump to calculator ↓Secondary control over the same field; the numeric input stays the precise way in. The URL keeps your scenario.
Screening rule: "Square footage method: >/=20 Btu/hour/square foot of any area that: is currently served by any heating system (existing homes), OR will be heated (new construction)" — Efficiency Maine — Residential Heat Pump Rebate Claim Form (Sizing Worksheet), document dated 2026-08-28. The form scopes it as “suitable for homes with typical insulation and air sealing.” Climate zone: predominant IECC zone per state, tallied from the DOE/PNNL county table (a state can span zones — your county decides). Capacity classes below: NEEP cold-climate database medians.
- What this tool outputs
- A bracketed capacity range, not a spec
- Inputs used
- Square footage + DOE/IECC climate zone
- Range source
- Efficiency Maine worksheet + NEEP medians (cited)
- What it can't see
- Insulation, windows, air sealing, ceiling height
- The real answer
- A contractor's Manual J load calculation
- Oversizing risk
- Short cycling and weaker dehumidification — not just cost
Why this number
Square footage and climate zone are the two numbers everyone already has — this tool turns them into a published, cited bracket and nothing more.
NEEP cold-climate medians: what each size class delivers
| Class | Units (n) | 47°F BTU/hr | 47°F COP | 17°F BTU/hr | 17°F COP | 5°F BTU/hr | 5°F COP |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1.5-ton ducted | 22000 | 3.3 | 18520 | 2.3 | 16900 | 2 | |
| 2.5-ton ducted | 35000 | 3.24 | 31200 | 2.27 | 27000 | 1.96 | |
| 2-ton ducted | 29000 | 3.27 | 22203 | 2.34 | 20900 | 1.97 | |
| 3.5-ton ducted | 47000 | 3.24 | 39500 | 2.21 | 34000 | 2 | |
| 3-ton ducted | 42000 | 3.2 | 36000 | 2.17 | 33000 | 1.9 | |
| 4-ton ducted | 50000 | 3.19 | 41500 | 2.29 | 40000 | 1.9 | |
| 5-ton ducted | 64500 | 3.1 | 50400 | 2.3 | 48500 | 1.91 | |
| 1.5-ton ductless | 22000 | 3.22 | 18500 | 2.24 | 16950 | 1.98 | |
| 2.5-ton ductless | 34050 | 3.32 | 27400 | 2.35 | 24500 | 2 | |
| 2-ton ductless | 29200 | 3.06 | 23600 | 2.2 | 20000 | 2 | |
| 3.5-ton ductless | 48000 | 3.27 | 34600 | 2.25 | 34000 | 2 | |
| 3-ton ductless | 43200 | 3.1 | 35200 | 2.23 | 32700 | 1.98 | |
| 4-ton ductless | 55000 | 3.09 | 44550 | 2.26 | 39500 | 2 |
Medians of the NEEP cold-climate ASHP database (ENERGY STAR cold-climate subset), deduplicated by outdoor unit; per-class sample sizes shown. Source: ashp.neep.org. Capacity falls with temperature — the 5°F column is the honest one for a cold-zone design conversation.
Square footage and climate zone are the two numbers everyone already has, which is exactly why sizing rules-of-thumb are built on them. This tool takes both and returns a bracketed capacity range pulled from published efficiency-program guidance — Efficiency Maine’s sizing worksheet and NEEP cold-climate medians, cited next to your result — not a number fitted or invented for your specific house.
What a rule-of-thumb can tell you — and what it can’t
Climate zone captures how demanding your region’s design temperature is: a Zone 2 home in Houston and a Zone 6 home in Minneapolis need different capacity even at identical square footage, because the outdoor design temperature each system has to handle is different. Combining zone with floor area gives a plausible range for a “typical” home of that size in that zone — a reasonable first gut-check, or a sanity check on a quote you already have.
What it can’t do is see your actual house. Square footage says nothing about insulation R-values, window area and glazing type, air sealing, ceiling height, or how many walls and how much roof face the outdoors — and two homes of identical size in the same zone can have meaningfully different heat loss from those factors alone. A rule-of-thumb range can’t narrow past what square footage and climate zone actually encode. Only a Manual J load calculation — a contractor measuring your home’s real construction, room by room — produces an actual number, and oversizing that number has real costs of its own: short cycling, weaker dehumidification, added wear. The goal is the contractor’s figure, not the top of this bracket.
Next steps
With a range in hand, price what a heat pump actually costs to run against a furnace using the heat pump vs furnace cost calculator , see how your climate’s degree-days shape a typical season on the winter heating page, and if you’re weighing whether to keep gas as backup rather than size around the coldest day alone, the dual-fuel switchover calculator handles that question directly.
Frequently asked questions
Why can't this replace a Manual J load calculation?
A square-footage-and-climate-zone rule of thumb averages over every home of that size in that zone. Manual J instead calculates room-by-room heat loss and heat gain from your home’s actual measurements — insulation R-values, window U-factors and orientation, air leakage, duct location. Two homes of identical size in the same zone can have genuinely different loads for reasons a bracket can’t see, which is exactly what a full ACCA Manual J calculation is built to capture and a rule-of-thumb is not.
Does oversizing a heat pump actually matter?
Yes, and it’s not only a cost question. An oversized unit satisfies the thermostat faster, which means it cycles on and off more often — that short-cycling reduces dehumidification in cooling mode, adds mechanical wear, and can undercut the steady, efficient operation a heat pump is bought for. Undersizing carries its own risk: leaning on backup heat more often at the coldest hours. Right-sizing is a genuine engineering trade-off that only a load calculation resolves.
What climate zone am I in?
The Department of Energy assigns every U.S. county to one of eight IECC climate zones based on long-term temperature data, and that assignment is what building codes and efficiency programs use for equipment guidance. This page links a zone locator so you can look up your own county directly rather than guess from a map.
Should I size by square feet or actual heat loss?
Square footage is a proxy; actual heat loss — the BTU/hr your house loses at your region’s design temperature — is the real quantity equipment capacity has to match. Two homes of identical square footage can have very different heat loss depending on their envelope. Square feet gives a cheap, fast first estimate; actual heat loss only comes from a room-by-room calculation, which is what Manual J performs.
How we calculated this
Range = square feet × 20 Btu/sqft (the published Efficiency Maine square-footage method) × 0.8–1.0. The climate-zone row shows the NEEP median 5°F capacity of the unit class nearest that load. No load calculation is performed; only a Manual J can specify the real number.Sources: U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA) electricity rates · DSIRE incentive records · public IRS/OBBBA guidance. Figures are modeled estimates, not quotes or tax advice. See our methodology.
Where to go next
- Cost to heat a home, state by state — Once sized, what the running cost looks like per MMBtu in 20 cold states — gas, propane, oil, heat pump, resistance.
- Heat pump vs furnace cost calculator — Once you have a size range, price what running each option actually costs at your rates.
- Winter heating costs — See how your climate’s degree-days translate into a typical winter bill, fuel by fuel.
- Dual-fuel switchover calculator — Deciding whether to keep a furnace as backup rather than size the heat pump for the coldest day alone.